ROSE ABSOLUTE OIL / MINYAK ABSOLUT BUNGA MAWAR By DDISTILLERS

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION

Rose Absolute Oil is a natural aromatic material obtained from rose flowers (Rosa × hybrida) through non-polar solvent extraction (n-hexane), followed by purification with alcohol to produce the absolute fraction. In scientific literature, solvent extraction is recognized as the most effective technique for preserving heavy and heat-sensitive aromatic compounds, such as aromatic esters and phenyl ethers, which are largely degraded or lost during steam distillation. Consequently, rose absolute is sensorially regarded as having a more complex, richer aroma that more closely resembles the scent of fresh rose flowers compared to steam-distilled rose oil (rose otto).

Physically, rose absolute oil appears as a mobile liquid with a transparent yellow coloration. Gas chromatography (GC) analysis of this product indicates the presence of benzyl acetate and phenyl ether within the reported quality specification ranges. Several studies identify benzyl acetate as a major contributor to the sweet, floral, and fresh aromatic character of roses, playing a significant role in the “petal-like” and natural impression. Meanwhile, phenyl ether compounds and their derivatives contribute to aromatic depth, powdery nuances, and the stability of the fragrance profile from the middle to base note phases.

In terms of solubility, this Rose Absolute Oil is soluble in alcohol and oils but insoluble in water, consistent with the lipophilic nature of its aromatic constituents. This characteristic scientifically underpins its application in ethanol-based perfumes, aromatherapy oils, and non-aqueous cosmetic formulations.

Organoleptically, Rose Absolute Oil exhibits a complex and progressive aromatic development. The initial phase is characterized by a soft, sweet floral impression, followed by a rich, warm, and slightly honey-like rose character in the middle phase. In the final phase, light resinous, balsamic, and powdery nuances emerge and persist, reflecting the presence of heavy aromatic compounds with low volatility. This sensory profile is consistent with organoleptic descriptions of rose absolute reported in various perfumery studies and sensory analyses, which emphasize high tenacity and aromatic depth as defining characteristics of high-quality rose absolute.

BOTANICAL AND MORPHOLOGICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Botanical Classification

• Kingdom: Plantae
• Division: Tracheophyta
• Class: Magnoliopsida
• Order: Rosales
• Family: Rosaceae
• Genus: Rosa L.
• Group: Rosa hybrida (horticultural group)

Rosa hybrida is not a single botanical species but a complex hybrid group resulting from crosses among various Rosa species (notably R. chinensis, R. gallica, R. damascena, and R. moschata). In scientific and horticultural literature, the term Rosa hybrida is used to describe modern cultivated roses characterized by large flowers, distinctive fragrance, and extensive color diversity.

Plant Habit and Structure

Rosa hybrida is a woody shrub with a height ranging from approximately 0.5 to 2.0 meters, depending on the cultivar and cultivation system.

Key habit characteristics include:

• Woody, branched stems typically bearing prickles
• A fibrous–shallow taproot system adapted to loose, well-aerated soils
• Active vegetative growth under temperate to subtropical climates, with many aromatic cultivars cultivated in tropical highland regions

Physiologically, rose plants exhibit high secondary metabolic activity during the flowering stage, particularly in the biosynthesis of volatile aromatic compounds.

Leaf Morphology

The leaves of Rosa hybrida are pinnately compound and typically consist of:

• 5–7 leaflets
• Elliptic to oval leaflet shape
• Serrated leaf margins
• Dark green, glossy upper surfaces with paler undersides

Leaves play a crucial role in photosynthesis and in supplying biochemical precursors (carbohydrates and phenylalanine) necessary for the formation of aromatic compounds in flowers, as reported in rose metabolomic studies.

Flower Morphology

The flower is the most important organ in the context of Rose Absolute Oil production.

Key characteristics of Rosa hybrida flowers include:

• Hermaphroditic flowers
• Flower diameter ranging from 5–12 cm
• Floral structures consisting of:
• Sepals: 5, green
• Petals: multi-layered, with high petal numbers resulting from hybrid selection
• Stamens: numerous
• Pistil: centrally located

Research indicates that glands responsible for volatile aromatic compound production are primarily located in the petal epidermis, particularly within papillate epidermal cells. These cells actively synthesize and release aromatic compounds during the full-bloom stage.

Aroma-Producing Tissues

Aroma production in Rosa hybrida occurs through:

• Epidermal cells of flower petals
• Enzymatic activity of the following pathways:
• Phenylpropanoid
• Shikimate
• Secondary terpenoid pathways

Compounds such as benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, phenyl ethyl derivatives, and phenyl ethers are produced and volatilized for ecological functions, primarily to attract pollinators. Molecular studies demonstrate that the expression of aroma-related genes increases significantly when flowers reach peak bloom.

Morphological Variability and Its Influence on Aroma

As a hybrid group, Rosa hybrida exhibits high morphological variability, including:

• Petal number and thickness
• Epidermal tissue density
• Aroma intensity and quality

Comparative studies indicate that cultivars with thicker and more densely layered petals tend to contain higher levels of aromatic compounds, making them more suitable for the production of aromatic extracts such as rose absolute.

HISTORY AND USE

Early History of Roses as Aromatic Plants

The use of roses as aromatic plants has been documented for thousands of years. Archaeological evidence and historical texts indicate that roses were cultivated and utilized in ancient Persia, Egypt, Greece, and Rome. Roses were used as fragrance materials, cosmetics, ritual substances, and embalming agents. In ancient Egypt, roses were associated with perfumery and beauty practices, while in Persian tradition they symbolized aesthetics and spirituality.

During this period, roses were not yet processed into absolutes. Aromatic utilization primarily involved:

• floral macerations,
• aromatic ointments,
• oil infusions,
• and hydrosols obtained from simple distillation.

Development of Rose Oil Extraction Technology

Rose distillation technology advanced significantly during the Islamic Golden Age. Avicenna (Ibn Sina), in the 10th–11th centuries, is associated with the refinement of steam distillation processes to obtain rose water and rose oil (rose otto).

Rose otto became a high-value product in:

• Turkey
• Bulgaria (Kazanlak Valley)
• Iran

Large-scale production expanded during the 18th and 19th centuries. However, steam distillation has inherent limitations, particularly the loss of heat-sensitive aromatic compounds.

Emergence of Rose Absolute Oil

Rose Absolute Oil emerged following the development of organic solvent extraction in the 19th century. This technology originated in France, beginning with the use of fat-based solvents (enfleurage) and later transitioning to volatile solvents such as n-hexane.

The basic production stages include:

1. Extraction of rose flowers with hexane to obtain concrete
2. Ethanol extraction of the concrete to separate waxes
3. Recovery of the concentrated aromatic fraction as rose absolute

This innovation enabled:

• higher yields
• more complex aroma profiles
• better preservation of aromatic esters and phenyl ethers compared to rose otto

As a result, rose absolute became a key material in European fine perfumery from the 19th century to the present.

History of Rose Absolute Use in Perfumery

Since the 19th century, Rose Absolute has been used as:

• a middle-to-base note component in luxury perfumes
• a binding agent for other floral aromas (such as jasmine and ylang-ylang)
• a builder of classic accords such as floral, chypre, and oriental

Rose Absolute became a cornerstone material in iconic perfumes due to:

• high tenacity
• complex aroma (floral–honeyed–resinous)
• stability in alcohol-based formulations

Industrially, rose absolute is primarily sourced from:

• Bulgaria
• Turkey
• Morocco
• France
• India

Use in Health Traditions and Psychoaromatherapy

Throughout history, aromatic rose materials have been used for:

• relaxation
• spiritual rituals
• space fragrancing
• social and symbolic status

In modern contexts, scientific studies indicate that rose aroma:

• influences the limbic system
• is associated with emotional regulation
• contributes to positive psychological experiences

Rose Absolute has subsequently been incorporated into:

• modern clinical aromatherapy
• psychological research on scent
• non-medical wellness applications

However, formal therapeutic use still requires rigorous clinical evaluation; therefore, it is not claimed as a medicinal agent in the context of public education.

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